格陵兰系列2:独步幽灵城 Alone in a ghost town

        (原文取自格陵兰航空公司杂志《Suluk》2017年03 期)

When the clock strikes 12 midnight, Færingehavn is Greenland’s scariest place.

当时钟敲到午夜12点,Færingehavn是格陵兰最可怕的地方


Few people get to visit the abandoned fishing port which is located 60 kilometres south of Nuuk. Many people may not even want to! Nowadays, Færingehavn resembles something out of a Stephen King horror film with evil spirits that haunt the night. Next in command on the inspection ship Tulugaq, Jens M. Hansen felt his heart in his throat as he walked on his own around the empty buildings with his camera, while the wind howled in the eaves.

很少有人能够去造访位于这个努克以南60公里的废弃的渔港。很多人甚至就是根本不想去!现在,Færingehavn就像来自史蒂芬金恐怖电影的情景,邪恶的灵魂在黑夜里游荡。接下来就轮到Tulugaq号巡检船上的指挥Jens M. Hansen了,当他手拿照相机,独自行走在自己空旷的建筑物周围,寒风呼啸着从屋檐下穿过,他觉得自己的心脏已经提到喉咙里了。

– My colleagues continued on into the fjord system after setting me ashore at Nordafar. I was completely alone. That made a big impression. I was a little apprehensive about what I would find; everything appeared as if it had been left in haste. But it was also as if the people had had every intention of returning within a short time, says Jens M. Hansen.

——“我的同事们继续在海峡里,只把我在Nordafar放到岸上。我现在是彻底的孤家寡人。这真是印象深刻。对于我可能会发现什么我有那么一点不安;所有的东西都好像是被匆匆遗留在这里了。可是,又似乎像是人们曾经打算短时间内会再回来一样。”Jens M. Hansen先生说

Oven-ready socity  现成的社会

The last permanent residents left Færingehavn more than 25 years ago. Since then, the ravages of time have attacked the place. Rust, rot and mould are eating the buildings. Surprisingly, much of the original furniture is still intact. Jens M. Hansen  has documented this with his camera:

Færingehavn最后的居民离开这里也已经是25年前了。自从那时,时光的摧残侵蚀着这个地方。铁锈、腐烂、发霉,正在吞噬这些建筑物。令人惊讶的是,很多的原有家具设备依然保存完好。Jens M. Hansen用他的相机记录下了这一切。

– Accounting ledgers from as far back as 1958  lay out in the open. Industrial machinery stood ready to receive goods and a chair stood out on the quay, so you could enjoy your coffee in the afternoon sun. There was a piano that had collapsed in on itself. There were also the huge factory and refrigeration halls, giving an indication of the work that went on here. And the community centre with a cinema and the superintendent’s house, says Jens M. Hansen and adds:

——“早先1958年的会计账目公开可见。机械设备已然就绪,卸装货物,一把椅子就放置在码头边显眼处,你只需在下午的阳光下享用着咖啡。一架倒塌的钢琴。一间大型工厂以及几个冷藏库,提示着这里曾经进行过生产。还有,一个有影院有当地长官的房子构成的社区中心,”Jens M. Hansen接着说:

     【上图】It makes you think of the ruined castle in the James Bond film,Skyfall,but it is the abandoned main building in ringehavn. 这也许让你想起詹姆斯邦德电影《大破天幕杀机》中的城堡废墟,其实,这是在Færingehavn被遗弃的Færingehavn的主要建筑。

“I was a little apprehensive about what I would find; everything appeared as if it had been left in haste” —— Jens M. Hansen

“对于我可能会发现什么我有那么一点不安;所有的东西都好像是被匆匆遗留在这里了。”——Jens M. Hansen

History 历史

Færingehavn opened in 1937 as an international fishing port. A hospital, a warehouse for salting fish and a radio station were built. Hardly 50 years later, the fish trade stopped. The Danish Faroese company, Nordafar, went bankrupt in 1989.

Færingehavn在1937年作为国际化渔港而建。城里还建了一所医院,一个腌鱼储存仓库以及一个广播电台。仅仅50年以后,因为丹麦所属法罗群岛的Nordafar公司在1989年破产倒闭,这里的渔业贸易终止了。

The historical accounts of the place are many. It is particularly fascinating to read of earlier times and what it felt like to be left behind when the  winter took hold of the country and the regular personnel left.

这个地方的历史故事有很多。研究早先的时候,去体会一下当时严寒的冬季里,人们陆续离开,被落在后面的感觉,这真是有特别吸引力的事情。

For many years, it was caretaker Egon Jørgensen’s duty to take the »winter watch« together with his wife. In an article in the newspaper Grønlandsposten (published in May 1960) he told of the strange job:

很多年里,负责冬季看管是留守人Egon Jørgensen和他妻子的职责。在1960年五月出版的《格陵兰邮报》(Grønlandsposten)的一篇文章上,他谈到了这个奇怪的工作:

– On a purely human level, I am most comfortable when it is just the two of us. We earn our money in the summer, but we like it, when the last people leave, because then we have the peace and quiet of the winter. In the summer, there is so much going on here, he told Grønlandsposten.

——按照纯粹人类的标准,当这里只有我们两个人的时候我觉得最舒服了。我们在夏天赚自己的钱,最后的人离开了,但我们喜欢这样,因为这样我们拥有平和清净的冬季了。在夏天,这里会发生很多事情。他对《格陵兰邮报》讲述说。

However, according to Egon Jørgensen, not everyone could handle it: – The first person I shared the winter watch with, could not handle it. It was too lonely for him and he became depressed. 

然而,按照Egon Sørensen的说法,不是所有的人都能应对得了:——第一个跟我一起做冬季看管的人,就不能应对。对他来说这里太孤单了,他变得很郁闷。


  【上图】The chair is set out for a cup of afternoon coffee in the sun. Tulugaq can be glimpsed out on the fjord.   这把椅子,为阳光下下午的咖啡而设。坐在这里,可以一睹海湾外Tulugaq鸟在飞翔。

   【上图】All the windows were shattered apart from one, which I found after looking for two hours, says Jens M. Hansen. 所有的窗户都破了,只有一个仍然完好,我找了两个小时才发现。Jens M. Hansen说。

  【上2图】An entire society with warehouse, cinema and railway was built up – and abandoned »over night«. 一个完整的社区,有影院,有仓库,铁路也建成了—— 一夜之间就被丢弃了。

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