1500 - 1560
NEW MEN IN A NEW WORLD
As conquest, exploration, and wars expanded the known world, men's fashion broadened too.
Clothing expressed an assertive, confident masculinity through bulky layers that increased a man's physical presence.
Huge shoulders, broad chests, prominent codpieces, and an emphasis on the thighs all enhanced a sense of the active body.
The legs usually peeped out below knee-length skirted robes and jerkins and the newly separate breeches and hose.
Clothing complexity increased as linings and shirts burst through deliberately cut and slashed outer garments.
Embroidery and lines of braid also helped enrich the surfaces of clothing, largely replacing patterned textiles.
THE CODPIECE
The origins of the codpiece lie in the triangle of fabric used to join the two separate hose legs in the late 15th century when doublets shortened.
Soon padding was added and ended up as the codpiece - a prominent, suggestive shape filling the gap between the legs of the breeches.
It soon became a normal part of male clothing, in style across many countries and social levels until the end of the 1500s.
Tailors became as creative with codpiece shapes as with other clothing details.
The codpiece could hide a pocket or even be used as a pincushion.
公元1500 - 1560年
新人新世界
随着已知世界被征服，探索和战争扩充，男性时尚也在扩张。
服装通过庞大的层次表现出一种武断，自信的阳刚之气，它提升了男性身体的存在感。
巨大肩膀，宽阔胸膛，突出的生殖护具，以及对胯部的强调，都增强了身体活力的感觉。
双腿通常在膝盖长度的裙袍，紧身短上衣，和新式分腿马裤下出现。
由于打底衬衣从刻意裁剪与留有开口的外衣中爆裂出来，服饰的复杂性增加了。
刺绣与编织的线条同样有助于丰富服饰的表面，将印花织物取代了。
科蒂佩斯
科蒂佩斯（下体盖布）的起源，是在十五世纪后期当上衣变短，一块三角形织物被安置在两腿之间。
很快衬垫又被加入，成为了一块显眼的，暗示性形状的两腿之间的填充物。
它很快成为男装的日常部分，科蒂佩斯的流行横跨许多国家与社会阶层，直到十五世纪末。
裁缝师开始在下体盖布的形状上创新，同其他服饰细节一样。
有的可以隐藏一个口袋，有的甚至用起来就像针垫。
