1870 - 1900
SPORTSWEAR FOR THE NEW WOMAN
Women’s day wear was adapted for sports from archery to croquet and boating to tennis, while still preserving a fashionable waistline, sleeve shape, and skirt fullness.
Drawers worn under petticoats enabled freedom of movement without fear of embarrassment.
Knit underclothing such as Dr.Jaeger’s sanitary underwear, available from the mid-1880s, cotton combination garments that avoided bulky waists, and specifically designed sports corsets were a boon.
The breathable cotton-mesh fabric Aertex was invented in 1888, and less restrictive corsets were made that incorporated this mesh to allow better air flow.
Women supporters of the Pre-Raphaelite and Aesthetic movements had already stopped wearing corsets and wire understructures.
While the new woman spurned fancy fabrics, burgeoning department stores sold silk brocades and plush velvet gowns in joyful colors, and society women found themselves with an abundance of choice.
ARTISTIC AND AESTHETIC
Women in artistic circles, such as the Pre-Raphaelite muse Jane Morris, flouted rigid dress conventions, pioneering a freer style.
Dress reform societies also campaigned for healthier, less structured forms of dress.
Their dress styles recalled medieval (pre-hooped skirt) days.
They borrowed relaxed styles such as the early sack back, in which fabric fell unfettered from nape to hem.
1870 - 1900
新女性运动服
女性的日常着装能够满足从射箭到槌球，划船到网球的需求，同时保留时髦的腰线，袖子的轮廓以及丰满的裙身。
裙撑下穿着多层蛋糕裙可以自由活动，不用担心走光。
针织打底衫例如DR.JAEGER的卫生内衣，从19世纪中期出现，有了它人们不再穿着笨重收腰的棉质组合服装，而且对于运动紧身胸衣的设计是一种福音。
透气棉织物Aertex在1888年被发明，它的透气网使空气更流通，能制造出较少限制的紧身胸衣。
前拉斐尔派与审美运动的女性支持者开始停止穿着紧身胸衣与铁丝网裙撑。
新女性蔑视花式面料，蓬勃发展的百货商店销售欢快色彩的丝绸锦缎与丝绒长袍，女性发现自己有非常丰富的选择。
艺术与美学
在艺术运动中的女性，如拉斐尔的前缪斯JANE MORRIS，蔑视严格限制的礼服条款，开创了一种更自由的风格。
服饰改革协会也为倡导更健康，更少结构化服装的形式而举办活动。
他们的服装风格令人回忆起中世纪环形衬裙的日子。
他们借鉴了早起的敞开式后背的轻松风格，面料从颈背到下摆自然下垂不受约束。
