1625 - 1635
MEN IN LACE
By the mid 1620s, with a new king, Charles I, on the English throne, the heavily padded doublets of King James I's reign (also widely worn in courts across continental Europe) were passing out of fashion.
New, longer doublets in plain or subtly patterned silks replaced the tabbed styles made of the heavy woven and embroidered fabrics that were popular earlier in the 17th century.
Breeches, too, changed in shape.
They became much longer, reaching to mide-calf level, and were worn with soft leather boots rather than decorated shoes.
Neckwear such as circular ruffs (held out behind the head by a wire support called a supportasse or a pickadil) began to fall out of fashion and give way to extravagant lace collars.
The plainer fabrics of the new-style doublet were a perfect foil for such accessories, and this became a boom time for lace makers.
Lavish quantities of elaborately patterned lace were used for every accessory, from cuffs and collars to handkerchiefs and boot hose.
Flemish bobbin lace was widely available, but the new fashions benefited every lace-making center in Europe.
THE DOUBLET
The padded jacket that men wore in the first part of the 17th century was known as the doublet.
This garment had several variations in shape and style.
The one illustrated here has deep stiffened tabs and is made of figured, paned silk.
Doublets were attached to trunk hose (the short, puffed breeches that were fashionable in this period) with points or ties, which held the two parts of the outfit together.
The fastenings were called "points" because of the pointed metal ends of the laces.
They were often made of silver and gold thread, and added decorative trimming to the doublet.
1625 - 1635
蕾丝男子
十七世纪二十年代中期，新国王查理一世在英国上位。詹姆斯一世时期的厚重夹棉双排扣夹克（同样在欧洲大陆宫廷穿着广泛）已经脱离时尚。
新的，更长的平纹或精巧图案丝绸夹克替代了十七世纪早期大受欢迎的重型梭织与绣花面料的样式。
马裤也改变了形状。
他们变得更长，到小腿肚，搭配的靴子也是柔软的皮靴而不是装饰性鞋子了。
领子就像个圆形花边（通过支撑使之在后部后方也能展开，我们称之supportasse或者pickadil）也不再时髦，取而代之的是奢华蕾丝领。
新款夹克的平纹面料是对配饰的最好衬托，使之成为蕾丝制造者的繁荣时代。
精细图案蕾丝被用在所有配饰上，从袖口领子到手帕和紧身裤。
弗兰德线轴编织花边被广泛使用，但新时尚使得欧洲每个蕾丝制造中心都受益匪浅。
短款夹克
十七世纪男性最早期穿着的夹棉夹克人们称之为doublet双排扣夹克。
这款服装有好些形状与款式的变化。
这里展示的具有深切口的款式，由花纹杂色丝绸制成。
双排扣夹克搭配箱型裤（短款，膨胀马裤在这个时期是时尚的）以绑带或钉扣固定，将两片固定在一起。
固定件被称为“point“钉扣因为以金属圆扣固定。
它们通常由银与金丝线制成，并加以装饰。
