#每天读一点服装史# BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

1625 - 1789

BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

Opulence, grandeur, heavy ornamentation, and rich colors were the defining characteristics of fashion throughout Europe in the 17th century.

No one demonstrated this baroque style to greater effect than King Carl Gustav of Sweden, who wore such a richly decorated doublet at his coronation in 1654 that the fabric beneath the embroidery was completely invisible.

The baroque style was set at the royal court in France, where the stiff-bodiced, heavy-skirted court dress known as the grand habit was established in the splendor of Louis XIV's Versailles.

The fabrics for these stately clothes were produced across Europe, but the French silk industry, centered in Lyon, dominated.

Farther afield, the influx of goods from Asia via trading organizations such as the Dutch East India Company, founded in 1602, meant that printed cottons and painted silks from India and China flooded the European fashion market.


Henrietta Maria



ROCOCO LIGHTNESS

By the 18th century there was a move in the decorative arts toward a lighter, more flowing aesthetic known as the rococo, which was reflected in fashion.

This could be seen in the curving lines of the silk designs produced by such craftspeople as Anna Maria Garthwaite and the Spitalfields silk weavers in London, many of them protestant Huguenots who had fled religious persecution in France.

Gone was the boned bodice and skirt, to be replaced first by a loose, full-skirted gown known as a mantua, and then by an open robe and petticoat.

Men's doublet and hose had disappeared too, giving way to coat and breeches.


Louis XIV



REVOLUTIONARY SPIRIT

By about the 1770s England was setting the principal style in men's dress with the coat called the frock, worn by men for countryside pursuits.

This more informal look was taken up in revolutionary America and even in France, the center of fashion, where the revolutionary leaders opted for styles that set them apart from the aristocratic and increasingly isolated Ancien Regime.

It was around this time, too, that cottons and muslins traded from the East became the new wonder fabrics, and women's dress took on a softer silhouette.


Flower patterned silk designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite



公元1625 - 1789年

巴洛克与洛可可

富饶,宏伟,着重装饰及色彩是十七世纪欧洲的时尚特征。

没有人会不承认这种巴洛克式的风格比瑞典的卡尔古斯塔夫国王更有影响力,国王在1654年加冕时,穿着一件精美装饰的双扣上衣,面料在刺绣下完全看不见了。

巴洛克风格基于法国皇室宫廷,在辉煌的路易十四凡尔赛宫中,建立了一套穿着僵硬上身,厚重裙摆的宫廷礼服礼仪。

这些富丽堂皇的服饰面料在欧洲生产,但以法国丝绸制造业的中心里昂,为主导地位。

更远的,来自亚洲的商品则通过贸易组织,例如1602年成立的荷兰东印度公司,这意味着来自印度和中国的印花棉与丝绸充斥了欧洲时装市场。


Oliver Cromwell



明亮洛可可

到了十八世纪,装饰艺术走向一种更轻,更流畅的审美,同时反映在时尚中,它被称之为洛可可。

你可以从伦敦的Anna Maria Gathwaite以及Spitalfields丝绸编织商的工匠们那里看到丝绸设计的曲线,他们中有很多人是在法国宗教迫害时逃离的新教徒。

一种宽松,拖地裙长的袍子就像mantua(女外套)这样有长袍开口,能看见衬裙的服装,代替了之前的去骨胸衣与半身裙。

男性双排扣短上衣与软包腿连裤袜也消失了,取而代之的是大衣与马裤。


Madame de Pompadour



革命精神

大约十七世纪七十年代,是设定男装主要风格的时代,外套叫做frock(女上衣),由追求乡村风格的男士穿着。

这种不拘礼节的穿着方式被革新的美国甚至时尚中心法国所接受,领袖们选择将他们的风格与贵族和越来越被孤立的安蒂斯政权区分开来。

也是在这个时候,来自东方的棉花与棉布成为新奇的面料,女装轮廓也更加柔软起来。


George III
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